French Polynesia
Ahoy Sailors!
Or, as they might say in Tahitian, “maeva, manava”
in order to set the vibe, I’ve shared 2 short videos that I found online which you can play in the background as you read through the rest of this document...
The islands of French Polynesia, as the story goes, are among some of the most remote islands on the planet with a population whom, as a result of their isolation, successfully avoided colonization and influences from the outside world long after much of the rest of the world had already been explored and/or conquered. This left these groups of islands unspoiled and untouched from the west for much of their existence.
The Tahitian people are also known to be among some of the kindest hearted people on the planet. I believe that these two factors are correlated...and when you add in the warm tropical climate, an abundance of natural marine resources & reefs, along with some lush mountainous terrain... and I think you just may have a recipe for some of the most beautiful islands on the planet!
Whether you buy into this theory or not, what is not up for debate is the fact that you’ll soon be sailing to some pretty special places...with some pretty amazing people!!
Here’s what you need to know:
Your week long sailing trip together is fast approaching and we are EXCITED, as you should be! Preparations have been under way for some time now and as we continue to ‘trim our sails’ and dial in your island-hopping adventure, we just wanted to touch base on a wide range of topics, share some important information, and provide some good vibes about sailing and how best to enjoy your island hopping adventure together!
Rally Point & Check In: Uturoa Marina - Raiatea 98735 BP 2274 Uturoa French Polynesia.
The marina is close to the RFP airport (10 min). If you arrive early & would like a bite to eat, “TonTon Burger” is located just down the road. You may check-in the day before, or the morning of departure with either:
Customer Service: Olivier 689 87 233 150 or Base Manager: Jerome 689 87 305 502
Airports: (RFP) - Raiatea Airport via Papeete International Airport (PPT)
Passports: *Please make sure your passport is up-to-date and valid for the duration of your stay.*
Provisions:
Local Weather: Tune in to the daily weather forecasts in English …
CRUISE TRACK & TRAVEL TIPS
CRUISING GROUNDS
South Pacific Ocean ~ French Polynesia ~ The Society (Leeward) Islands
WEATHER
General Conditions: Roughly speaking, there are two seasons:
The Rainy Season (November to April) which is typically wetter, hotter (85- 95°F) and more humid.
The Dry Season (May to October) which is typically cooler (78 - 85°F) and windier.
Most of the rain falls during the warmer season, but there are also many sunny days during these months, with refreshing trade winds that blow regularly...and for the most part, French Polynesia is sunny and pleasant.
The water temperatures average 79°F (26°C) in the winter and 84°F (29°C) in the summer with less than a degree of variation from the surface down to 165 feet (50 metres).
Prevailing Winds: The Leeward Islands enjoy a prevailing Easterly wind of 15 or 20 knots, occasionally increasing to 25 knots with seas becoming choppy. Beaufort Wind Scale
Typical Swell: Usually coming from the South West with swells of 3-5 ft (1-1.5 m). Occasionally, a rough or mixed sea state will exist due to a crossed swell when South and East winds are blowing.
Tides: Around 20 to 30 cm (approx.: 1 foot). In the Leeward Islands low tide is around 6.00 am & 6.00 pm, high tide around noon & midnight.
Storms: Thunderstorms, Squalls, Water Spouts & Cyclones can & do occur.
Historical Weather (Averages by month)
Marine Forecasts:
By Radio: Radio Polynésie (RFO) on 94 FM, at 5.55am, 6.50am, 7.50 am, 10.30am and 5.50pm
VHF 26: “Mahina Radio” 11.00 AM, 12.00 AM, 8.40 PM, 9.00 PM (English on request only).Channel 27 in the Windward Islands.
VHF 10: The base relays an internet report daily from Météo-France a chart indicating all centres of pressure.
By phone directly to Météo France: 36 70 08
By Internet: SailFlow
Two Week CRUISE TRACK
Finalization of your cruise track won’t be determined until the day of departure, however a tentative itinerary is in place and as with any sail trip, adjusting on the fly may be part of the fun.
The islands that will be within our reach are the:
Leeward Islands
Huahine
Raiatea
Tahaa
Bora Bora
Tupai
Maupiti
Mopelia
Motu One (Bellinghausen)
Manuae
To give you an idea of the flow, below is a suggested cruise track for a 2 week charter, however your trip may vary.
1st Day: Start from the base at sail to the Motu Mahaea or Motu Cerant (Tahaa). Beautiful snorkeling near the reef, swimming in crystal clear waters. Night on anchor or at the Haamene bay for dinner at the Tahaa Maitai. Chez Bruno is an excellent chef. You may book a mooring/reservation in advance (4065 70 85).
2nd Day: Anchor up for Huahine (25 Miles, 5-6 Hours). Stopover at Fare, a typical small village. Boutiques, bar and restaurant on the seafront.
3rd Day: Early sail for breakfast at the Royal Tahitian resort. After breakfast, go on and anchor in the beautiful bay of Avea. Good snorkeling on the coral heads and you may go for a walk along the shore. Dinner at the restaurant w/ Chez Tara. Refill water at the Relai Mahana.
4th Day: Huahine - Raiatea Passage. Downwind, good fishing for tunas or mahi mahi while underway. Enter the Irihu pass and anchor for the night in Faaroa Bay. Contact James for the mangrove river tour, ask him for fruits, veggies, vanilla.
5th Day: Take the kayaks or dinghy along the mangrove river (no engine allowed there). Visit the botanical garden beyond the wooden dock. Sail to the Toamaro Motu on the east coast for a local dinner at the Fare Vai Nui.
6th Day: Sail through the Punaeroa pass and cross to Bora Bora, anchor on the west side of motu Topua.
7th Day: Explore the lagoon. Sail to the East side of the Bora Bora lagoon. Many spots to anchor. Visit the Lagoonarium and swim with the rays, sharks, turtles... Possible Tahitian lunch on the motu near Taoere (Mauna Motu Taiarui Louis (8724 77 86).
8th Day: Back to the west of the lagoon, dinner at Bloody Mary's. Refill water there.
9th Day: Day sail to Tupai, a deserted atoll, very good fishing, then back to the Makai marina for dinner.
10th Day: Maupiti Passage (3 hours sailing). Check the condition of the pass call Camille from Maupiti .If the conditions are too rough, postpone, or take the ferry for a day visit of Maupiti.
11th Day: Visit the island, walk around, snorkel the reef and dinner at the only restaurant near the post office.
12th Day: Sail to Bora Bora, mooring at the Bora Bora Yacht Club. Refill water, laundry and dinner ashore.
13th Day: Sail to Tahaa Hurepiti Bay. Call Alain Plantier for a mooring buoy in the Hurepiti bay and book a tour for the next day (4065 62 46, VHF 9), or anchor in the bay. Night on the mooring.
14th Day: After breakfast, take the excursion to Tahaa mountain with Alain Plantier. Night mooring at Haamene bay. Hibiscus restaurant for dinner or anchor in the North of Motu Mahatea, excellent snorkeling.
15th Day: Back to the marina. 8AM stopover at the fuel station at the entrance of the marina. Gas and diesel Refill.
The above suggested cruise tracks provide you with a sense of the pace/flow. Each island brings something slightly different and it should be noted that you won’t be able to hit every single spot, nor would we want to. The idea is to fully enjoy each island that you do decide to port at, and you will see a lot!
Changes in plans can sometimes occur due to wind speed, wind direction & weather.
Navigating: You will primarily be navigating by way of GPS & line-of-sight, along with some chart plotting.
Passages: The passages between the islands will be open ocean passages and in some cases relatively short hauls, while in other cases some fairly long hauls (1⁄2 day +). Ideally, you want to space the long hauls out.
IF YOU ARE ARRIVING EARLY OR STAYING LATE
Airport Shuttle & Taxi Information:
The ride from the airport to the marina is next to nothing as the two are more or less adjacent to each other. Depending on your collective crew’s flight arrivals, We can arrange for a shuttle to pick those up who are arriving around the same time, and not checking into a hotel first. Otherwise, several of the hotels offer shuttles & there are only so many flights a day going to the island. Ground transportation is readily available. Grab a Hinano & embrace ‘island-time’.
Arriving Early / Staying After
Tahiti Lodging - Trip Advisor
Moorea Lodging - Trip Advisor
Raiatea Lodging - Trip Advisor
Top 10 Things To See & Do:
Tahiti - US News & World Report
Moorea - Trip Advisor
Raiatea - Trip Advisor
Additional Suggested Hotels in Raiatea:
Sunset Beach: www.sunset-raiatea.pf sunsetbeach@mail.pf tel 689 40 663308 (very pretty, 3km from base free transfers)
Raiatea Lodge: www.raiateahotel.com raiateahotel@mail.pf tel 689 40 661200 (nice, 4 km from base)
Villa Tonoi: www.villatonoi.com contact@villatonoi.com laura@villatonoi.com tel 689 87298906 (in town, free transfers)
Villa Temehani: tel 689 40 66 12 88 or 87 77 54 87 (nice, 10KM from base)
Opoa Beach Hotel: www.opoabeach.com tel 689 40600510 (far away from the base)
Hinano Hotel: contact@hotel-hinano-raiatea.com tel 689 40 661313 (in town)
Résidence Le Dauphin: Suzie TEITI Vini resaledauphin@mail.pf tel 87.78.90.74 (in town)
TELECOMMUNICATIONS
Cell Phone & Computer Guidelines:
We typically encourage guests to put their cell phones & computers away or for them to remain off, other than for taking photos and playing music. Mobile data & roaming charges can add up, we have a limited amount of power onboard that we can consume before having to run either the generator (noisy) or the engines (noisy), but more importantly - part of sailing is disconnecting from our land lives and enjoying the company of the people we are with. If you must make calls, check emails, log onto social media or send text messages, as a courtesy to your fellow shipmates - please go down below or set aside some time while ashore.
VHF & 2-Way Radios (AKA Walkie Talkies):
Close range, unobstructed, ship to shore radios come in fairly handy on the water. Each Captain, Mate &/or Ambassador (on a flotilla) will have one in order to communicate between ships, help find people & work any tender traffic.
Group Communications:
Starting a group WhatsApp text thread is a best practice in order to help coordinate any last minute travel or lodging plans, and to keep in touch while on-island.
Texting For Free While Abroad:
We recommend downloading WhatsApp for free on your devices & have recipients back home do the same.
Calling International From The U.S.
Your most affordable options are typically Skype-like options.
Placing Calls While Abroad:
WiFi calls are certainly your most affordable option, but many service providers offer international plans for as little as 20 cents/minute with free text & data push. If you need access to your phone while away, check with your phone service carrier prior to travel for regional service plans, or you may simply use the phone as a paper weight ☺
Internet
The internet is unfortunately pretty slow and expensive in French Polynesia. One can find an Internet cafe in Uturoa (Raiatea), Bora Bora and Papeete town (Tahiti). Some restaurants & hotels in the islands offer free wifi. There is also free wifi access around the Uturoa market (Raiatea). 3G connection is also possible with an internet SIM card that you can buy at some of the stores (Papeete and Raiatea) and at the base, if ordered in advance.
PACKING TIPS
Pack Light And Tight!: Most people bring more than they need! The French Polynesia Islands are laid back for the most part. To that end, high heels (ladies) and dress shoes (gents) are not required. We recommend bringing a couple of nice articles of clothing for evenings in “town” and/or dinner reservations. The rest of the time is really casual (think flip flops and bathing suits for the most part). You will also occasionally be getting wet and taking on spray, so be prepared for that.
Simple Packing List:
t-shirts
shorts
2 or 3 dressier outfits (sundresses, 1-2 pairs of pants w/ 1-2 dress shirts)
a few bathing suit(s)
a light rain jacket
sweatshirt
fleece or lightweight sweater
1 pair of flimsy pants, sweat pants, yoga pants or sarong
1 pair of sneakers
1 pair of flip flops or flats
sunscreen
sunglasses
a hat
your toiletries
passport
money
medications
Not Recommended:
High Heels: Wearing high heels on board is a sure fire way to twist an ankle and/or fall into the drink. Be casual and comfortable.
Hairdryers: They draw a lot of amperage and can easily cause a short or blow a fuse, which isn’t good. Please coordinate by bringing and sharing one or two “travel” hairdryers (specifically made to draw low amps).
Forbidden: *You will be visiting a foreign country. No drugs or firearms are allowed.*
Collapsible Duffel Bags: These types of bags are definitely key and the way to go as opposed to hard-wheeled, rigid cased bags that don't stow well in your cabin. Keep in mind that you and your cabin mate will have to find a place to live with whatever you bring into your quarters. Keep it low maintenance. Keep it simple.
Carry-On, If Possible: Try to purchase travel size sunscreens, hair products, etc., so that you can carry-on, especially when connecting with a layover. This reduces the chances of the airline losing your luggage.
Passports: You will need to clear customs. Please make sure that your passports are current with an expiration date of no less than 6 months from your final clearance date back into the United States.
Seasickness / Nausea: If you're worried about getting seasick, the best remedy or prevention, from what we’ve seen is the patch that goes behind your ear (a doctor’s prescription is required). You also should refrain from consuming too much food or alcohol while underway if you are prone to seasickness. That said, unless the Christmas Winds are blowing (strong Northerlies), you should expect fair seas & great weather in the 80’s.
Something Fun For The Group: We recommend that everyone pack at least one fun item for the group. It could be anything from magazines, mad-libs, playing cards, homemade holiday cookies, personalized drinking cups, floats, lights for the boat, bluetooth speakers to a guitar, harmonica, musical instrument, Mexican wrestling mask, Darth Vader mask, mankini, piñata, set of dominoes, set of handcuffs??, &/or noise makers. It’s good mojo, good karma and overall great for morale…plus, as many a Captain likes to say "the beatings will continue until morale improves!" ☺
ELECTRONICS
Power Cords: It’s a good idea to coordinate on some things such as cigarette lighter / car type chargers for both iPhones & Androids, as most boats are equipped with that type of input somewhere on the main panel. You should also plan to bring a few auxiliary input cords to use in order to connect your various devices to the boat speakers.
Adapters: In most places, you will need a regionalized outlet adapter for typical 120V U.S. type plugs. Some outlets and establishments might support 120 volt U.S. standard plugs.
Powering Down: When you’re not using your devices, it’s a good idea to turn them off or put them into airplane mode in order to conserve power. We also recommend keeping them tucked away so that they don’t fall overboard. Charging will be limited while on board so if you must have a charge, plan to bring a backup battery pack or remote charger to cover your needs.
ACCOUTREMENT
Headlamps: Camping style headlamps are low cost and helpful for reading, using the head & fumbling around at night. It is preferable if you can find one with a red light filter (a bright white light shined in someone's eyes while sailing at night can ruin their night vision for up to 30 minutes or more).
Go-Pros: These are fun to have for your in-water adventures.
Portable Projectors: An iPhone or Android projector might be a neat add. If the conditions are just right - no wind, no moon & no light pollution - you can try to project a slideshow onto your jib one night.
Drones: High winds and salt water are tough on Drones, but they do capture some neat footage. We don’t recommend bringing one, unless you’re ok losing it. Kites have worked better in the past.
Additional:
Having a paddleboard or a kayak is nice for exploring the surrounding motus. A limited number of kayaks, paddleboard and fishing rods are available for rent at the marina. It is advisable to book them at least a few weeks in advance. Please let us know if this is desired.
During your passage between the islands we may find tuna, mahi-mahi and thazards, which can be caught and they are all good to eat. *Do not eat any coral fish as they could be poisonous (Ciguatera). *There are also some extremely poisonous shellfish in the area which you will be informed about PTD. You do not want to step on, touch or eat anything that is poisonous.
WHAT’S INCLUDED
Linens: There is no need to pack beach towels, bath towels, face towels, bed sheets, blankets or pillows. These items are all included. Your yacht will also have bobby pins and you should consider bringing colored ribbons so that everyone can mark their own towels (a best practice).
Cleaning Products: Joy dish soap (or its equivalent) is the brand of choice for most sailors. It’s a little known fact among sailors that Joy dish soap is one of the only major brand that's biodegradable, environmentally friendly, and safe to discharge into the ocean. Also, if you like talking sailor showers, as we do, it's definitely the soap of choice when you want to smell Lemony Fresh!
Snorkel Gear: Everyone should get sized up on the docks for fins, masks & snorkels before pushing off. *Please bring your dive card if you are considering SCUBA Diving. It’s not a bad idea to bring your own equipment, however dive gear tends to be bulky to travel with.
*If you have any other particular questions about packing, please email CYC directly.
WHAT’S ON YOU
A Positive Attitude: There’s an old saying that says ‘the difference between an ordeal and an adventure is one’s attitude’. We cannot stress enough that THE SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT THING that you should bring on this trip is a positive attitude. A huge factor in the success of any trip does rest on you and a proper mindset can help set the stage for a great week on the water together.
Grievances: Living in tight quarters with less private space than we’re used to can be a lot for some people. Because folks might be out of their comfort zones, we would suggest leaving additional ‘baggage’ ashore because we will assure you that all of our work and life issues will still be there, waiting when you return :) What you seek is a week of warmth on the water with some salt and sun which, when mixed together just right, has a unique way of curing most all ailments. If grievances do arise on your trip, we suggest holding onto them until you have a proper chance to air them out on the water, in the dinghy & away from those not involved.
Gratitude: There are several words that I try to keep at the forefront of my mind before, during and after a sail trip such as the one that you are about to embark upon. Those words are gratitude, grace, humility, humbleness, kindness, respect, laughter &, of course, teamwork. These words actually describe some best practices and apply not just to one another, but also towards our fellow mariners whom you will encounter along the way, the locals who live on the islands as well as the creatures you’ll encounter along the way. Whenever possible, CYC tries to steer our guests towards leaving a small footprint behind.
Conservation: On a boat, you must think green. You do not have an unlimited supply of power or water, like you do at home. Dishes, showers and bathroom use must be completed differently. Your Captain will go over these processes with you at orientation.
LANGUAGE & CULTURE
Lonely Planet: Tahiti & French Polynesia: The paperback version of this book is an excellent read if you are looking to research the various appeals and offerings of each island. You will get brought up to speed on everything from vanilla farms to famous tattoo artists to black pearl harvesting to hiking ancient ruins to finding amazing beaches, surf breaks, snorkeling/SCUBA spots and more. The book also lists great restaurants & cultural events throughout the year, etc.
There is also an excellent book titled “No More Gas” from Charles Nordhoff and James Norman Hall which gives a good idea of the way people are living in the islands.
In “The Cruise of the Snark” by Jack London, he relates his passage sailing Raiatea, Tahaa and Bora Bora in 1901. This is also an interesting read.
Tipping: Traditionally, tipping has been contrary to the Tahitian custom of hospitality. It is neither required nor expected. However, if you receive particularly good service from someone the gesture will be appreciated. Some restaurants will have a note attached to the bill indicating that a tip would be welcome.
Languages Spoken: Tahitian, French, and English
MEDICAL
Allergies & Afflictions: Please let you skipper/steward know if you have any dietary needs, allergies or afflictions. Be aware that medical attention will be limited while at sea with decent facilities only existing on the bigger islands.
Medical Care: The boat does come with a basic first aid kit, but be sure to bring any necessary prescription drugs and specific medicine with you. There is a pharmacy on each of the Leeward Islands except for Tahaa where there is only a small clinic and a doctor (Doctor in Tahaa : Regis tel 4065 60 60). In Raiatea there are three private doctors (Doctor’s Office in Raiatea tel 4066 33 66) and a regional hospital. In Huahine and Bora Bora there is a free health center. Hospitals are open 24 hours a day. Emergency health center hours are from 0730 to 1200 and 1400 to 1730 during the week. Saturday hours are from 0730 to 1130.
YACHTS
Yacht Features: You have an awesome yacht chartered. The sloop/catamaran you’ll be sailing on is great for these waters. It will be equipped with some of the newest creature comforts and features that modern sailboats have to offer such as a covered aft cockpit, full entertainment center, fully-equipped galley, ice box, multiple heads, a cockpit shower and a saloon table that converts into an additional double berth. *Fresh water makers and generators are not available on all yachts.
A Word About The Heads: Your skippers will go over best practices regarding proper use of the toilets.
PROVISIONS
Your yacht may be provisioned in advance (for a small delivery fee) with an assortment of fresh fruits, nuts, vegetables, breakfast items, lunches, snacks, salads, beverages and several proteins/dinners. Please let us know if prefer this option.
If anyone has any special dietary needs, please also take that into consideration, as not all items you find in the U.S. are readily available in F.P. Otherwise, you can find an assortment of healthy options to prepare with and choose from to include such items as juices, toast, bacon, eggs, pancakes, granola, yogurt, cheese, crackers, chocolate, sandwich ingredients, burgers, pastas, etc. There are a several grocery stores if you prefer to self-provision the day of the charter.
Limitations: Milk alternatives are preferred to regular milk which tends to spoil faster in the tropics, especially with the limited refrigeration capabilities on most boats. Things like ice cream are a treat to have on shore.
BEVERAGES
General: Your yacht should be provisioned with plenty of water bottles, beer, soda, mixers, ice (when available), wine, champagne, rum, vodka and an array of other island mixers.
Coffee: Although you can usually find good coffee everywhere you go, you should be prepared that most boats are equipped with your grandparents’ style percolators. They actually work fairly well, but whether or not we can make you a Caramel Macchiato or Double Decaf Half-Calf, w/ a Twist, is yet to be determined. You may have to settle for an Arab or Cowboy style coffee while at sea.
Beer: We think you’ll definitely want some “cold ones” at some point or another on the trip, so plan to stock plenty of local beers, as needed. Hinano is the beer of choice.
Wine: French wines will be prevalent throughout the islands.
Rum: A sailor’s staple. Need we say more?
Mixers: A variety of mixers from fruit juices to seltzers and tonics should be provisioned, along with any local flavors.
*Based on what people like, you can re-provision the boat halfway through your trip with some additional items, as need be. We think everyone will be satisfied with the selections.
MISCELLANEOUS
Cleaning Products: Joy dish soap is the brand of choice for most sailors (maybe you already knew that). It’s a little known fact among sailors that Joy dish soap is one of the original major brand that's biodegradable, environmentally friendly and safe to discharge into the ocean. Also, if you like talking sailor showers, it's definitely the soap of choice when you want to smell Lemony Fresh!
Allergies & Afflictions: Please let us know if you have any dietary needs, allergies or afflictions.
*Based on what people like, you can re-provision the boat half way through our trip with some additional items, as need be (Virgin Gorda is a good island to reprovision, if need be).
RESERVATIONS
Dinners: Crowds are not a huge issue in this part of the world, so you should be fine making dinner reservations, days or perhaps a week, in advance, however if there is a must have for you, please do consider that in advance.
Dock Space & Moorings: Depending on your schedule & dock availability, your skipper may try to reserve slips in certain harbors, but for the most part you will be ‘on the hook’ or ‘on the ball’. That is to say anchored or moored.
CURRENCY
CFP franc: Perhaps the best and easiest place to exchange money is at the bank at the airport when you arrive in Papeete. It is open for all international arrivals, no matter what the time of arrival. Bring cash or travelers checks (the safer option). When you exit the baggage claim area, the bank is to the left, just past the pearl shop.
Converting at your hotel usually will not give a favorable exchange rate.
Converting before you leave the US will usually not give you a favorable exchange rate.
Converting at a local Tahitian bank will give you a more favorable rate, but you have to go find one first. They are not usually located right next door to your hotel.
Cash is still King, however ATM's there can be iffy. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don't, and they often run out of money, especially on weekends & holidays. Plus, they are not always located conveniently to the hotels.
The best option overall is to use credit cards for most of your purchases and only bring some cash or travelers checks to exchange to local money (or make use of the ATM/Bank for your local money which does come in handy).
Note: alert your bank before leaving to notify them that you will be out of the country so they don't 'freeze' your account due to suspicious activity.
If your next question is: How much cash will I need? Our answer to you is: How much fun do you want to have?? ☺
WRAP UP
We sincerely cannot wait for you to hoist your first island drink and set sail upon the mighty Pacific! A preemptive toast to family, friends & all things good in this life!
We look forward to seeing you in the islands soon!
Fair Winds & Following Seas,
Captain Pete and The CYC Team!